Kilkenny City Day Trip

Ireland's Marble City

It had been far too long since our last visit to Kilkenny, so we set off on a day trip to rediscover its charm and see if it still lives up to its reputation as the hidden gem of Ireland's South East. While Dublin, Cork, and Galway often steal the spotlight, Kilkenny stands apart as a city steeped in medieval history, yet brimming with a vibrant, modern energy.

The city's story stretches back to the early 6th century, when St. Canice founded a monastic settlement here. Today, St. Canice's Cathedral stands on the location of the settlement, a stunning relic of Kilkenny's origins. Unlike coastal cities like Dublin and Waterford, which faced repeated Viking raids (8th–11th centuries), Kilkenny's inland location spared it from much of the destruction, allowing it to thrive and endure through the centuries.

St Canice's Cathedral

Our first stop was St. Canice's Cathedral, a historic landmark set within a well-maintained graveyard, reflecting Kilkenny’s medieval heritage. As one of Ireland’s most significant ecclesiastical sites, it has stood the test of time, offering visitors a glimpse into centuries of history.

Inside the Cathedral

Among its most striking features are the medieval effigy tombs, considered some of the finest in Europe. Their intricate carvings shoe knights in full armour, equipped with weapons, alongside their wives dressed in elegantly decorated garments.

The alter's marble floor pays tribute to Ireland's four provinces: Kilkenny's famous black marble for Leinster, the green Connemara marble for Connacht, the red marble of Cork for Munster, and Armagh's grey marble for Ulster.

The cathedral also boasts stunning stained-glass windows that cast colourful light over its various numerous stone and wood carvings. An organ from the 19th-century still stands in place, and a carefully crafted model shows a fascinating look at what Kilkenny would have looked like in 1641.

The Round Tower

St Canice's round tower, built in 1111 AD, is one of only two in Ireland you can actually climb. Standing 30 meters tall, it has 121 steep steps leading to breathtaking panoramic views. Beneth the tower lies the remaind of two skeletons from over 1,000 years ago.

Tickets to ascend the tower can be purchased from inside the cathedral (€6 per adult, €3.50 per child under 18). Keep in mind that climbers must be at least 140cm (4.5 feet) tall — a rule they stick to! Our youngest adventurer, at 1.35m, was just shy of the mark and had to sit this one out. The climb itself is a bit of an adventure, with some tight squeezes and tricky spots, definitely not suitable for anyone with mobility issues. But if you make it to the top, the views are well worth the effort!

The Smithwick's Brewery

Heading southwest from St. Canice's Cathedral, a short 10-minute walk brings us to one of Kilkenny's most renowned landmarks—the Smithwick's Brewery. Though we didn't have time to step inside, its significance to the city's heritage is impossible to overlook.

Smithwick's has been a part of Kilkenny for over 300 years, its origins stretching back to 1710. John Smithwick founded the brewery on the grounds of St. Francis Abbey where monks had been brewing ale since the 14th century. For generations, the Smithwick family kept the tradition alive until 1965, when the brewery was bought by Guinness. You'll see the distinctive red-ale being proudly enjoyed by both locals and visitors alike as you pass the city's numerous pubs,and its guided brewery tour, The Smitchwick's Experience, remains a popular destination for many tours of Ireland.

Rothe House

As we rounded the corner from The Smithwick's Brewery onto Parliament Street, we noticed an interesting old building. This turned out the beautifully preserved 16th-century merchant's townhouse; Rothe House. Built by John Rothe Fitz-Piers in 1594, it's one of the finest examples of a Tudor-era home in Ireland.

Kilkenny Castle

No day trip to Kilkenny would be complete without seeing Kilkenny Castle, and as the little ones were tiring out, we said it would be a great spot to end of Kilkenny day trip. Standing on the banks of the River Nore, Kilkenny Castle is one of Ireland's most visited and well-preserved castles. Originally built in 1195, it has evolved from a medieval stronghold into an stunning Victorian-era residence.

Today, Kilkenny Castle stands as an integral part of the city, hosting exhibitions, concerts, and cultural events throughout the year. On warmer days than today, locals flock to its manicured gardens and a scenic parkland walkways, and has remained a favourite destination across tours of Ireland for decades.

The "Cursed" Statue of Kilkenny hurlers

We came across the reason, according to some locals, for the relatively long winning drought as we headed across Canal Square. Erected shortly after Kilkenny winning their last Ireland in 2015, the statue has become known as "Cursed Statue". Only time will tell if the curse can be broken — the same goes for the County Mayo footballers who were said to have been cursed by a priest for interrupting his sermon, while they celebrated their last win in 1951! But, that a story for another day.

Looking back on our Kilkenny day trip

Kilkenny is just as vibrant and welcoming as we remembered. Despite visiting on an overcast winter's day, cafés, pubs, and restaurants had a real buzz about them. As we plotted our way from one historic landmark to another, through small streets and along the banks of the River Nore, the it's hard not to be taken under the spell of this historic and underestimated Irish city.

One last historic, witchy, sidenote

Speaking of spells... Kilkenny was the location of Ireland's most infamous witch trial. The image above shows Kyteler's Inn, opened in 1324 and owned by Dame Alice Kyteler. When her forth husband died under mysterious circumstances, his children suspected foul play was afoot. The Bishop of Ossory at the time, Richard de Ledrede led the witch hunt against Alice, accusing her of witchcraft, sorcery, and poisoning! Alice managed to escape Ireland but her servant, Petronella de Meath was caught, tortured and burned at the stake.